Back to Edinburgh

After leaving Balmoral Castle, we made a beeline for home to return the rental car. Our GPS unit brought us straight home via Perth, and over the Forth Bridge.

We drove 810 miles, walked through at least 8 castles, and took around 650 photos.

Here's a map of where we went, or view it on Google Maps.


We are now officially castled out, and I personally wouldn't mind if I never saw another in my life!

Before we returned the rental car, we thought we would be clever and use the rental car to do our grocery shopping, so we could take it all home in the boot of the car rather than on the bus. Just for a change. And to make the most of it, we stocked up on heavy items like bulk canned drinks etc. So imagine our surprise when we got home to drop it all off, and found our lift was out of order, and had to carry it all up 3 flights of stairs :-(

Finally, an apology to those of you who read the blog regularly, on how long it took me to get this last post up for the Easter trip. I think I need a Round Tuit.

Balmoral Castle

For some years now I have been wanting to visit Balmoral Castle, and finally we were in the neighbourhood and as the estate is only open 4 months of the year to the public we were in luck. The existing castle and lands was purchase in 1852 by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Albert designed and had the a new castle built as a Royal Residence which was completed in 1856, and expanded to more than 260 square kilometres in total.

Although we didn't get to go into the castle, we were able to walk around the estate and go through the ball room. I can see why the royal family come here, it is so peaceful it must be great for them to be able to get away each year. Although the roses weren't out yet you could tell spring was in the air, buds on the trees, squirrels running around the forest floor.

Dufftown to Balmoral Castle

After leaving the Glenfiddich distillery, we made for Balmoral Castle. This was a drive and a half!

We crossed through some serious mountain passes, beautiful they were, and diverted on the most direct route which was single carriageway, through narrow winding roads.

We didn't expect this, and thought the last of the difficult driving was behind us. It was interesting all the same. Time was becoming an issue so we didn't stop until Balmoral Castle.

Glenfiddich Distillery

We didn't know this was here, and only happened upon it because we turned left to look at Belvenie Castle. So after the castle, we thought we would pop in to see if they do tours. They do! The welcome mat begins with the large carpark across the street, leading to well manicured lawns and gardens, and finally to the visitors centre.


Upon arrival, we learned that tours are free, and the next one begins in a couple of minutes. Win!




The tour was fun and informative. Beginning with a video telling the history of Glenfiddich, and Dufftown, we then moved through most stages of manufacture.


Some parts of the factory smell really nice and yummy :-)


Interestingly, in the distillery part, and also where the barrels are kept to age, we were not allowed to use cameras inside. The reason is that there is alcohol fumes in the air, which are flammable, and pushing buttons on a camera could be enough to create a minute spark that could ignite.

A nice theory, until we were shown the barrels, and reminded about no photographs for safety reasons, then the guide turns on the Plasma TV and presses play on a DVD Player, to show us a video about how barrels are made. So what all this about electrical sparks then? :-)

The tour was informative, and of course afterwards we had a tasting at the bar. As I was driving today, I couldn't have a dram, so I was given a small bottle to take away. Another win!

Belvenie Castle

Our last day, and we have one main aim, go to Balmoral Castle. On the way, we popped in unplanned to see Belvenie Castle. We didn't realise, but this was right in Dufftown. This was a ruins, and we didn't spent long there. Interestingly, birds were busy nesting all over the place, so there were lots of twigs and branches scattered about the castle floors.

Anyway, here it is! Sorry not to sound more enthusiastic, but after seeing so many castles in recent days it's easy to become blasé.


Of much more interest is that Belvenie Castle is right next door to Glenfiddich Distillery. Let's look at that too, shall we?

Craigellachie

This was the only night of our trip for which we did not book accommodation in advance. When planning out trip, we didn't know exactly where we would be, or want to be, so took a chance.

We knew we were heading in the direction of Balmoral Castle and on the map the biggest circle we could see was Dufftown. The further we progressed in that direction, the smaller the towns were, and the less B&Bs we saw. It was a tourist route, in fact it was whisky country with distilleries everywhere. Not far from Dufftown we passed the sunny spot that is Craigellachie. We decided to see if we could find somewhere to stay.

We stopped first at the Highlander Inn. They had no rooms spare, but the chap where was so friendly and brought us through to their bar, and rang around a few locals B&Bs to find us a room. He was successful, and we ended up just across the road at Strathspey B&B, adjoined to the Post Office. It was a lovely place, a very nice room with giant ensuite, and friendly service.

Once unpacked, we walked down to the main road nearby and crossed over to check out an old bridge. This wasn't any old bridge, but was Craigellachie Bridge, an old cast iron bridge that was rather unique and important in its day. It's no longer used by traffic but is instead part of a walking track along the River Spey.


After the bridge walk, we headed back to the Highlander Inn. As the nice chap there had found us a room, the least we could do is buy dinner off him. It was the best thing we did. The bar meals were superb. The service from all staff was efficient, as well as very friendly and accommodating. The bar has hundreds of whisky bottles, and tastings are actively encouraged, either individually or in tasting sets. We had it explained to us how to nose the whisky, adding water or ice as appropriate. Helen wanted to try a local dram, and after explaining she was a beginner, was given a nice Glenlivet 12 year old, nothing too strong.


We recommend to anyone staying in the neighbourhood, pop in to the Highlander Inn for a meal and a dram. You won't be disappointed!

Brodie Castle

Not too far from Inverness is Brodie Castle. We nearly didn't bother, having already seen so many other castles on this journey.

We parked up, and walked the short distance through the grounds to the castle entrance. Once inside, we were informed a guided tour had just started, the last one for the day, and asked if we would like to join. We gladly accepted.


The castle was one of the most interesting we had seen, and I am sure the tour was part of the reason for that. It was over an hour, but our guide was very knowledgeable about the history of the castle, and also a good story teller. She gave us a really good insight into what life was like here, the family history, pointed out many items of interest, very knowledgeable.

As we left, we took a few minutes to soak in the sun and enjoy the surrounding daffodils.

Now knowing where we were staying tonight, it was time to make tracks and move on towards Morayshire.

Fort George

Fort George was not originally on our itinerary, but we were nearby so decided to pay a visit. This was partly a result of failing to find another castle in Inverness thanks to poor tourist road signs.

The fort is still in use today, apparently, although there was not much sign of activity apart from tourists wandering around. It has been kept in excellent condition, well maintained by the military. Its position surrounded by water is definitely a strategic one, and the only way in by land is via large ditches. And it certainly is big! This photo does it justice.


Although interesting to see, it wasn't the most exciting of places, so we didn't stay too long.

Loch Ness to Inverness

We took a inland drive from Loch Ness to Inverness, leaving the water behind. The drive was kind of rural, rolling hills, but nothing too spectacular. Of course we had planned this route as it would take us over the Kessock Bridge.


Once in Inverness, we set about proving that it is possible to get lost with a GPS unit. It's really easy, just follow the tourist signs, and a road works detour, and trust your instincts rather than the technology.

Urquhart Castle and Loch Ness

Urquhart Castle sits beside Loch Ness and is one of Scotland's most commonly photographed castles. It was just minutes down the road from where we stayed at Drumnadrochit so was our first stop after breakfast.


Most castles are plainly visible from the roadside, or nearby, without actually paying to visit. They only require payment to go inside.

This castle is different. The road and carpark is above the castle on a hill, as is the ticket office. Significant effort has been made to conceal the castle from the roadside. Trees have been planted along the length of the carpark. A view can be had from a couple of strategic spots but they're not that good for photos.

Once ticketed, we go down to the visitors centre. This is a superb setup. Really geared up for tourists, with the largest gift shop of anywhere we have visited in Scotland so far, yet all done tastefully, not at all tacky.

The tour begins with a short cinema presentation telling (in brief) the history of the castle and the surrounding area. Finally the lights come on, the curtains open, the behold the castle in front of us through large windows, with Loch Ness deep blue and glistening in the morning sun. Most impressive.


We spent perhaps an hour here, it was so lovely and warm in the sun, and peacefully quiet, and the beauty of Loch Ness will stay in our minds forever. I can see why people would want to build a castle here.


We decided against taking a boat tour around the castle, complete with Nessie sonar, content with what we had seen from land.

Drumnadrochit

We wanted to see Loch Ness. We had booked a stay at Bridgeend House B&B in Drumnadrochit, a small town just a mile away from Loch Ness. We arrived early evening, and met our guest, Rosalyn. We were shown to our room, and it was very comfortable indeed.


After freshening up, we walked about a mile up the road to East Lewiston, another equally small town, to find dinner. The place we were aiming for was the Loch Ness Inn. They have a restaurant attached that we heard was very nice. We didn't have a booking, but were early, and we were fortunate to be fitted in. I had the special, roast beef with all the trimmings. Helen had Aberdeen Angus steak. All was cooked to perfection. We had desserts too, they were equally good. These guys really know how to cook! Service was great, we'd go back there anytime if it wasn't so far from home.


After that, the sun was on its way down, we walked back to the B&B. Just in time to watch Britain's Got Talent. Does life get any better?

Eilean Donan Castle

We nearly forgot to visit this! At the last minute, we had to double back on ourselves a wee bit to get here. Luckily the drive was a nice quick one on good roads.

Eilean Donan Castle is the star of many movies, yet looks amazingly different in the flesh. For us, this was more so because of the low tide at the time, it barely looked like it is an on island.


What we learned on our visit was that the castle was refurbished in the early 1900s after being in ruin for nearly 200 years. So here we were looking at something that is mostly less than 100 years old! Even the bridge did not exist until reconstructed.

Still, it was a beautiful day, the the castle's position out between where three lochs meet was certainly impressive given the conditions.


This is one of the "must see" castles that Scotland has to offer. I wouldn't necessarily bother going inside, but it's great to see from the roadside all the same. I would live to see it again at high tide. Maybe next time we're in the neighbourhood?

Applecross to Dornie

From Applecross, we took the longer coastal route back, heading around a scenic drive which was still quite technical, on narrow winding roads. The views continued to amaze, thanks in part to the blue sky and equally blue seas.


The towns from Applecross onwards were tiny, there was no petrol on offer for a long while. Apart from tourists, the only company we had along the way were highland cattle which are impressive creatures with their long hair and big horns.


How would you like to live in a spot like this?


Helen had a drink bottle of "Highland Water" which was empty. It was bottled in some town. She wanted the real thing from a mountain stream, guess who the mug was who had to get it? The water was fresh and cool and lived up to expectations.



Eventually we found petrol, then headed back across roads we had already been on, as we moved towards Eilean Donan Castle. But just look at these lochs, they're all beautiful and they all look like this.

Bealach Na Ba

A road less traveled, no doubt. We headed over Bealach Na Ba, the highest road in Scotland, to Applecross. The road was well signposted. Nobody can say they weren't warned of it!




Certainly the road was only wide enough for one car. It was very steep, winding back and forth up the hill. Our car was down to first gear for many hairpins and the clutch smelled. There were however many passing bays, useful as we weren't the only car on the road.

On the way up, this was the view ahead as we acsended into the clouds. In about 20 minutes we went from warm, sunny weather to cold, cloudy weather. Altitude will do that!


From perhaps half way up, this was the view looking back down where we had come from.


Once at the top, the sign indicated we were at 2053 feet altitude. It also pointed to all the nearby peaks. What a shame we were in the clouds and couldn't see anything :-(


Heading down, the road dropped quickly and soon we were back below the clouds. A sunny day lay ahead, with blue water on the surrounding seas.


The trip down seemed quicker, probably made easier as we were driving downhill.

This is a drive well worth doing. The crossing didn't take long, perhaps 30 minutes. It wouldn't be recommended for camper vans but for those in cars, this is a "must do" if in the area.

Plockton

For me Plockton was the most beautiful place we have visited in Scotland and is by far my favourite town. It was recommended to me by my masseuse, and she wasn't wrong. It is a very small town of only 378 people on the shores of Loch Carron. I had pre-booked us into the Plockton Inn, and it was a good find. So once we where all booked in and had a bit of a rest after the few hours of driving I had done, we decided to head out on foot to take a look around.

The houses have their front door right on the street's footpath. Those on the waterfront have a garden across the road, by the shore. This photo is taken from the beach looking across someone's front garden, see the car in front of the house.


Not long into our walk we came across 4 guys standing on the little island in Plockton harbour. Not long after we saw them they began to realize they were stranded, they had walked to the island when the ride was out, not realising it's an island, then the tide came in. So after some deliberation, during which time the water rose further, this is what they did.



After our wondering around it was time for dinner. Although I had a seafood meal the night before, I couldn't help myself but try the seafood at the Plockton Inn. I started off with the Vodka, Tomato and Oyster Shots, AMAZING is all I have to say, should have got 6 not just 3 :o)


Mike had the local seafood soup called Cullen Skink, which is a thick Scottish soup made of smoked Finnan haddie, potatoes and onions.


And then I ordered the seafood platter.


Mike finished off with a Scottish sundae which had homemade whisky and shortbread ice cream.


We went to bed on a full stomach as our room was right upstairs!

The following morning, we had a sleep in, but Mike arose late and suddenly realised the sun was shining. He grabbed his camera and ran out the door. He returned soon after with some beautiful shots, which really capture the beauty of this little town.

Portree

Portree was slightly off the beaten track for us, a minor detour off the A87 as we navigated ourselves back towards the mainland.

We paid a visit mainly to see the harbour there, which is known best for its brightly coloured buildings. It didn't take much finding, and we stopped there for a some chips & vinegar from the local chippy shop, to munch on while we soaked up the atmosphere.


Actually the town is big, the largest in the Isle of Skye, but the harbour itself is tiny and doesn't give a true impression of the large town that stands beside it.

And for Helen, she now gets to say "I've been there, seen that" every time she watches Made of Honor.

Next stop, Plockton.

Dunvegan to Portree

After seeing Dunvegan Castle, we stopped at Dunvegan for a bite to eat, at an organic bakery. Here we realised how far from civilisation we were. Nobody took debit cards (i.e. EFTPOS) and our cash reserves were low. And the only ATM in town was inside a store and wasn't shy about charging to withdraw cash. By scrounging around our bags and pockets, we found enough coins to purchase a light lunch.

We then continued on our way. The road took a more coastal drive, less mountainess, but no less scenic. And the sun continued to shine. Life is good.

Dunvegan Castle

Dunvegan Castle is on the north west coast of the Isle of Skye, on Loch Dunvegan. The castle has been here for some 800 years, and is the home of the Clan McLeod, it is the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland. It is also home to the precious Fairy Flag of Dunvegan, the most treasured possession of the Clan, and dates from between the 4th and 7th centuries A.D. Unfortunately we were not able to take any photos inside the castle, but it has a very family feel to the place.

Mike and I spent a good couple of hours ferreting through the castle and gardens on a beautiful spring afternoon. The view across the Loch was just amzing from the windows of the castle. We then took a walk through the gardens, all the spring bulbs were out and we found this beautiful waterfall in one corner.

Armadale to Dunvegan

For our day on the Isle of Skye, we took a round trip.

Firstly, we went south to Aird of Sleat, which is at the end of the road, just a short drive. We went for a nosey but there was nothing there but sheep and farmhouses. And it was hosing with rain. That aside, the scenery was pretty amazing.



We headed north on what is the only main route, through Kinloch and Broadford, before arriving at the junction at Sligachan at which point we turned left to take the northern route towards Dunvegan.



This route climbs over some quite high mountains, it's almost like another Highlands that the Isle of Skye keeps all to itself. We were so fortunately that the rain lifted, and the sun came out, while at the same time the waterfalls and rivers flowed freely.





The road was in good condition, designed to take a large number of tourists, but wasn't overly busy. We expected being Easter to have a lot more traffic on the roads.

The road eventually dropped down towards sea level, with views over lochs galore, all by this time lovely blue as the sky cleared.

Before we knew it we arrived in Dunvegan. The town is tiny, we passed straight through and continued to our destination, Dunvegan Castle.

We thoroughly enjoyed our drive here. The Isle of Skye really is something special.

Mallaig to Armadale Ferry

Mike had booked us on the 9.30 ferry to Armadale on the Isle of Skye. The morning was very overcast but the sea was pretty calm. We arrived 40 minutes before, the request was to be there 30 minutes before it leaves, so we ended up being 3rd in the queue. For a while we were thinking that there would only be a few of us but within 30 minutes the lanes were all full and we were being loaded on the ferry.

The departure gave us a good view back at Mallaig and its fishing boats. You can see our hotel in the photo on the top just right of centre.



The crossing was smooth and only took 30 minutes. I much preferred it to the crossing between the North Island and South Island at home. The ship we were on was called the MV Coruisk.


Upon arrival, we were third off the ferry. Armadale is a tiny village, and it was raining quite heavily at that point. So we headed down the road, to watch the ferry depart. This photo is the same ferry with the mainland in the background as it headed back to Mallaig.